First of all happy new year!
Here is 5 frames from the past month. Shoot on Olympus OM40. The film is Ilford HP5+
Endnu engang skal der fremkaldes en sort/hvid film, og det er den samme som sidst. En Tmax 400. Som tidligere nævnt er jeg af den ”nye skole”, fordi jeg først rigtigt er begyndt at fotograferer, da det blev digitalt. Det er først nu, jeg er kommet i gang med analog fotografering(og fremkaldelse). For god ordens skyld vil jeg endnu engang opridse….Read More
Once again, I developed a black/white film, a Tmax 400. As you properly know, I started shooting in the middle of the 00’s, when it was all digital. So it is only now that I have started analogue photography (and development). To set the record straight, I would mention what is needed to develop black and white film at home.
• A developer tank
• Chemicals (developer and fixer)
• Darkroom changing bag
• Measuring cups (x5)
• Clothes Pegs
Now you are good to go.
1. Select a developer
I have developed a few films before and in the beginning, I used a cheap developer. That works okay, but when you dive into the analogue development process, you will find that the developer is almost everything. So now I have changed my developer to Ridonal after much research on the internet. As far as I am informed it should be the best developer for creating contrasts in black and white film, which I am a big fan of.
2. Wind the film onto the reel
First of all you need to rewind the film in the camera and then remove it. Afterwards you put the film, the developer tank, a knife (to open the film cassette) and a scissor into the darkroom changing bag. The bag is light proof, so you can safely take the film out, and wind it onto the drum. Once it is done and you have closed the developer tank properly, you can open the bag.
3. Mix the chemicals
My advice for everyone, is to mix the chemicals in advance. In this way you are well prepared, and don’t have to temper water, in the middle of the process. It can be difficult to achieve the exact temperature directly from the water tap. As a backup I always have some cold water in the fridge, so I'm sure I can get the wanted temperature.
Most mixing ratios can be read directly on the bottle. In my case with Rodinal, they suggest from 1/25 up to 1/100, but then it is about figuring out what to use. The way I decided what ratio to use, was to read forums on the internet, and what they suggested. I ended up using a ratio of 1/100. On the bottom of the developing tank the ideal amount of water required to cover a roll of film is stated. In my case with 35mm film, the total amount is 300ml. So the chemical mixing ratio is calculated as following 300/25 = 12. Rewritten:
288 ml of water at 24 degrees and 12 ml developer.
For stop bath I used normal tap water and it worked just fine. The fixer itself is a noname that I have always used. The way you determine the fixer ratio, is the same as for the developer. On the bottle it said ¼, so the formula is 300/4 = 75.
300 ml water at 24 degrees Celsius water, for the stop bath.
225 ml of water at 24 degrees Celsius and 75 ml of Fixer.
4. Rinse the film before starting
Before you pour the chemicals into the developer tank, it is best to wash the film. The reason why you do so, is to rinse the worst chemicals off, so the developer responds better to the film itself.
5. Developing your film
Pour the developer in the tank for 8 minutes and inverse the tank constantly for the first minute, and 4 inversions every minute. After 8 minutes, the developer is poured back into the bottle from which it came from.
6. Stop bathing and fixer
Pour the stop bath (300ml tap water) into the developer tank. Let it rest for a single 1 minute while the tank is tipped constantly. After 1 minute, the stop bath is poured back into the bottle it came from.
You’re almost done. Now you must pour the fixer into the developer tank. The timeframe for this is 3 minutes, with 10 inversions every 30 seconds. When time has elapsed, and it is done, pour the fixer back into the bottle where it came from.
7. Rinse the film a last time
Finally, we must rinse the film one more time to clean it for chemical residues. Some say you must use demineralized water to avoid lime stains. I have tried both, and I have never got lime stains on the negatives. So, I use regular tap water.
Fill a bottle with 1 liter of water. Fill the developing tank, so the film is covered by water, and do 10 inversions and pour it out. Repeat this process until have you used all the water in the bottle. Now the film has been developed and must be dried.
8. Hang it to dry
Before the film can be scanned it must be dried. This is done by hanging it to dry. The clothe pegs I used for the film, is not the ones designed for film, but the ones designed for my laundry. They work just fine! On the other hand, I have bought a film squeegee to wipe off the water. It may also be why I do not get lime stains as it removes most of the extra water. I always let them hang for a good while, 30-45 mins, so I'm sure they are dry.
9. Scan the movie / digitize the film
How to make the movie digital again? Scan it.
It can be done in many ways, for example, photographing the negatives back illuminated or scan them. I have bought a used Canon scanner so I can scan multiple negatives at once. And then I've invested in VueScan. Once scanned, I send them through photoshop and remove the last dust, adjust the light a little, and add some sharpness.
Since I have not figured out how to produce paper prints the old-fashioned way, I still print them on a modern printer. Why print them? Because I think the photo should not stay on the computer. It is made to be seen on print.
A quick update. What have I been up to the last month? I've been doing some photographing for the local newspaper, and Visit Haderslev, and not to forget, i've been shooting some 35mm BW film and developing them. And at the moment, I am writing an DIY guide on how to, So there is something to look forward to. But in the meanwhile you can just see some of the pictures I have developed.
Long time, no see. What have I been up to lately? Working, simple as that. I havn't had that much time to photograph, which has resulted in less posting on this blog. I as far as I can see it's not going to change soon. So I'll post once a month, and if possible every fortnight.
Of course I've done some photographing the last month. Here are some of them.
As I mentioned last week I did bring a analogue camera with me when visiting Thy.
First some facts. The film was a Kodak Tri-X400, and it was loaded in a Konica Autoreflex A. I shot the film the two days I was visiting Thy.
Before anything, I surfed the web to see if I could find some instructions on how to develop a BW film. My main sources were two Youtube videos - Noisefilm and Ilford - and two websites - Ilford and Digitaltruth.
Then I acquired the following:
- Developing tank - must have
- Thermometer - must have
- Chemicals - must have
- Changing Bag - must have
- Film wiper
- Graduated beaker - must have, but bought them secondhand, and the ones made for cooking. Works just fine.
Once I got all the things, I watched all the videos and read the websites again and again. Just to be sure.
The first thing I did was rewindning the film. What happend next was that the film broke. I was not aware of this so I opened the back cover. Easier downcast, I decided to continue the processio, hoping it was not ruined, when I opened the cover.
I chose to put it all in the changing bag - Developing tank, scissor, knife and the camera. I opened the cover, and started to see if I could get the rest of the film of the spole and into the developing tank. It succeeded - though a bit shattered. Now to the actual development.
I read the mixture proportion on the bottles and got this:
- 275ml water(20 degrees celsius) - 25ml developer
- 285ml water(20 degrees celsius) - 15ml Stopbath
- 225ml water(20 degrees celsius) - 75ml Fixer
- Distilled Water
And now the how-to!
- Pour the developer in the developing tank for 5 minutes and agitate every 30 seconds, for 10 seconds. After 5 minutes pour the developer in back in the graduated beaker.
- Pour the stopbath in the tank for 1 minute, and agitate every 30 seconds. After 1 minute pour the stopbath back into the graduated beaker.
- Pour the fixer in the developing tank for 5 minutes and agitate every 30 seconds, for 10 seconds. After 5 minutes pour the fixer in back in the graduated beaker.
- Wash the film for 3 minutes
- Hang the film to dry. Don't forget to wipe the film from water with the film wiper.
- Scan the film.
I think it turned out too grain. This is the first film I developed. So I'm not sure if it's because of the film, the develop-time, the chemicals or a whole other thing. But surely, I'll try to make it less grain next time.
Let me know what you think abot the pictures, and this guide. Do you want more of this content?
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Last week I visited the Northern part of Jutland, more specifically the Thy area. My first though was only to bring my analogue camera, but on second thought, I did also bring my digital camera, including the drone, so I played it safe.
This was the first place I visited, and the most Northern. It's partly known from a tv program called "Gutterne fra Kutterne", and from the way they dock. They drag their fishing boat onto the beach. It's quiet an attraction, and it's really fascinating to watch. Have a look yourself.
This is one of my favourite places in Denmark, and it is because of the nature. I was told it's the only bird cliff i Denmark. I did visit it twice this time.
A big inland lake, amazing scenery. If you ever have the possibility to visit this area, you should defiantly do it. The wild life and nature are so amazing. I could spend weeks up there and I'm sure I'd still be surprised by its wastness.
Now you are probably wondering where the analog pictures have disappeared, now that I had an analog camera. Next week, next week. I'll tell you the whole story, because I have also developed all the negatives myself, right here at the office. Rejoice!
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Okay, so I have this drone, and I really want to use it. But i've always said to myself, don't do the classic straight down pictures. Too cliché.
But last week, a friend and I took the drone for a flight and I took this picture - straight down - I must admit I really like clichés. So this post will actually be one big one.
Thursday evening I decided to go do some drone shots of a place called Slivsø just South of where I live. Nice summer evening, lovely light and a warm breeze. I set up the drone and began flying. Here is some of what I got.
But nothing ever go as planed. If you have a closer look at the picture above, you can see a white dot in the middle of the reeds. That is a swan hatching out its eggs. Out of respect for the animal, I did not lower the drone any closer, however, I did not only bring my drone. I grabbed the camera, with the 45-150 lens and tried to get a little closer, so I could get more intimate pictures of the swan. These are the two pictures I ended up with.
I was not satisfied with the results, so I decided to come back the next morning. I woke up way too early to see if I could snap the picture I imagined, and here is what I got.
Way better, much more like I imagined. The way the swan looks at the camera creates a way more interesting image. Still not the best, but acceptable. At the moment I'm not sure if to include this in my portfolio. But let me know what you think. What do you think about the pictures? Are the top down drone shoots to cliché?
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And for those of you who are interested, I did of course shoot other things than the swan. I've included them in the gallery below.
Does it really matter? Sure, you can find a million different answers to the questions on the web. It's a question I've been asking myself a lot of times, and some times I am still in doubt. Sometimes, I think it does, and some other time, it doesn't. I must admit I don't think it matters so much; let me elaborate.
I've been busy, selling a lot of camera equipment, changing systems a tons of times, and still haven't found the perfect setup. But I've come to terms with what I have.
Let's start at the beginning. This winter I traded my Fuji setup to the Olympus. One main reason is the IBIS (In-Body Image Stabilization) in the Olympus system, but there was also another reason to the change. It has a MFT (Micro Four Third) sensor. Having a MFT sensor results in a crop factor x2 equivalent to a full-frame. What that basically means is that the small sensor you have are closer to your subject - there is a inbuilt "zoom" in the senor. I've always wanted to photograph wildlife, and as we all know, the more zoom equals higher reward (most of the time). So I thought this was a way to get into wildlife, without spending a million. I hope.
I've explained all this to the guy who sold me the Olympus gear - Jeff Ravn - he said his best advice for getting close, wasn't gear, it's you feet. Of course that is obvious, but the thought has been stuck since ever since
Rewind 4 days back: I discovered Olympus held a cash back campaign. My obsession with gear rekindled, again. I started researching the 75-300mm to see if I could get some extra zoom, at discount. After spending hours looking at reviews, I shut down the computer. Thought to myself if the gear I got wasn't good enough. I grabbed my Olympus with the Lumix 45-150mm, and went outside to see if I could shoot some wildlife with this "small" amount of zoom. This is what I got.
The two original shotd are taken with the 45-150, and the two close ups are just 100% crops of the original equal to a 300mm. So, is it worth spending that much if you can get a decent result only by cropping? I know I'll lose the aspect-ratio, but you'll still get a decent photo by cropping. Or as we just found out, if you want to get closer, use your feet. I know if you photographing lions, you'll probably want to keep a bit of a distance between you and the pack. What I'm trying to point out is that next time you consider buying new gear think about what you have? Is the equipment unable to fulfill your needs? I'll gladly save the money and time spent on research, and instead go out shooting. Let you know what you think in the comments below, and don't forget to subscribe to the newsletter here.
These are the rest of the shots from the passing week. Hope you enjoy.
I know. I know. It's been a long time, and there's no excuse, though I've been so busy lately. But now I want to see if I can update the blog a bit more often. However, I have not been so busy that I have not taken any pictures. So here are a few of those I've taken over the last month. I hope you like them, and i hope you still want to share my posts.
Finally, I've been waiting about a month for this! First, it was sent off then returned, and sent off to another, where the price doubled. So what am I talking about? Let me tell you. I visited Vefa photo back in December where they recommended a real black and white film, the Kodak 100 TMAX. I shot the film, and handed it in for development. But they could not develop it, because it's real black and white negative and can't be processed like the Ilford XP2 400. So it went back and forth, but finally I got it back. And here are some of the pictures.
So which of the two BW film do I like the best? I don't know. But what I do know is that i'm a big fan of analogue! Just to set the record straight, the camera used is a Konica Autoreflex A.
And let's not forget: I've made another short video. Hope you like.
Finally the weekend has arrived, and finally I can get some photographing done
With some inspiration from rampaging storm outside, I got into my warmest cloth and went outside. The wind was blowing like crazy and I was hoping to catch some of it. I went to the beach at Halk, and started photographing the waves. And this is what I got
But that's not all. This week I made a short(really short 20 sec) "mood video" to show how it was. You can find it at my Youtube channel.
This week is a little bit different. I've been experimenting with analoguefilm for a while now, and have had a professional develop some of the film i've taken, and that's all fine, but iI want to show you guys the pictures. So I bought a cheap film strip scanner used, so I could scan the negatives, and I ended up with this result. Far from my expectations!
So instead I went online to find a way to scan my negatives, without buying an expensive scanner, and I ended up creating this.
After some trail and error I got at satisfying result. Have a look yourself, and let me know in the comments what you think. It's definitely not the last time I scan analouges.