Used my day off work to develop some film. This TMax 400 is developed at 1:50 in Rodinal. The camera used is a point and shoot from the local second hand shop.
Once again, I developed a black/white film, a Tmax 400. As you properly know, I started shooting in the middle of the 00’s, when it was all digital. So it is only now that I have started analogue photography (and development). To set the record straight, I would mention what is needed to develop black and white film at home.
• A developer tank
• Chemicals (developer and fixer)
• Darkroom changing bag
• Measuring cups (x5)
• Clothes Pegs
Now you are good to go.
1. Select a developer
I have developed a few films before and in the beginning, I used a cheap developer. That works okay, but when you dive into the analogue development process, you will find that the developer is almost everything. So now I have changed my developer to Ridonal after much research on the internet. As far as I am informed it should be the best developer for creating contrasts in black and white film, which I am a big fan of.
2. Wind the film onto the reel
First of all you need to rewind the film in the camera and then remove it. Afterwards you put the film, the developer tank, a knife (to open the film cassette) and a scissor into the darkroom changing bag. The bag is light proof, so you can safely take the film out, and wind it onto the drum. Once it is done and you have closed the developer tank properly, you can open the bag.
3. Mix the chemicals
My advice for everyone, is to mix the chemicals in advance. In this way you are well prepared, and don’t have to temper water, in the middle of the process. It can be difficult to achieve the exact temperature directly from the water tap. As a backup I always have some cold water in the fridge, so I'm sure I can get the wanted temperature.
Most mixing ratios can be read directly on the bottle. In my case with Rodinal, they suggest from 1/25 up to 1/100, but then it is about figuring out what to use. The way I decided what ratio to use, was to read forums on the internet, and what they suggested. I ended up using a ratio of 1/100. On the bottom of the developing tank the ideal amount of water required to cover a roll of film is stated. In my case with 35mm film, the total amount is 300ml. So the chemical mixing ratio is calculated as following 300/25 = 12. Rewritten:
288 ml of water at 24 degrees and 12 ml developer.
For stop bath I used normal tap water and it worked just fine. The fixer itself is a noname that I have always used. The way you determine the fixer ratio, is the same as for the developer. On the bottle it said ¼, so the formula is 300/4 = 75.
300 ml water at 24 degrees Celsius water, for the stop bath.
225 ml of water at 24 degrees Celsius and 75 ml of Fixer.
4. Rinse the film before starting
Before you pour the chemicals into the developer tank, it is best to wash the film. The reason why you do so, is to rinse the worst chemicals off, so the developer responds better to the film itself.
5. Developing your film
Pour the developer in the tank for 8 minutes and inverse the tank constantly for the first minute, and 4 inversions every minute. After 8 minutes, the developer is poured back into the bottle from which it came from.
6. Stop bathing and fixer
Pour the stop bath (300ml tap water) into the developer tank. Let it rest for a single 1 minute while the tank is tipped constantly. After 1 minute, the stop bath is poured back into the bottle it came from.
You’re almost done. Now you must pour the fixer into the developer tank. The timeframe for this is 3 minutes, with 10 inversions every 30 seconds. When time has elapsed, and it is done, pour the fixer back into the bottle where it came from.
7. Rinse the film a last time
Finally, we must rinse the film one more time to clean it for chemical residues. Some say you must use demineralized water to avoid lime stains. I have tried both, and I have never got lime stains on the negatives. So, I use regular tap water.
Fill a bottle with 1 liter of water. Fill the developing tank, so the film is covered by water, and do 10 inversions and pour it out. Repeat this process until have you used all the water in the bottle. Now the film has been developed and must be dried.
8. Hang it to dry
Before the film can be scanned it must be dried. This is done by hanging it to dry. The clothe pegs I used for the film, is not the ones designed for film, but the ones designed for my laundry. They work just fine! On the other hand, I have bought a film squeegee to wipe off the water. It may also be why I do not get lime stains as it removes most of the extra water. I always let them hang for a good while, 30-45 mins, so I'm sure they are dry.
9. Scan the movie / digitize the film
How to make the movie digital again? Scan it.
It can be done in many ways, for example, photographing the negatives back illuminated or scan them. I have bought a used Canon scanner so I can scan multiple negatives at once. And then I've invested in VueScan. Once scanned, I send them through photoshop and remove the last dust, adjust the light a little, and add some sharpness.
Since I have not figured out how to produce paper prints the old-fashioned way, I still print them on a modern printer. Why print them? Because I think the photo should not stay on the computer. It is made to be seen on print.
As I mentioned last week I did bring a analogue camera with me when visiting Thy.
First some facts. The film was a Kodak Tri-X400, and it was loaded in a Konica Autoreflex A. I shot the film the two days I was visiting Thy.
Before anything, I surfed the web to see if I could find some instructions on how to develop a BW film. My main sources were two Youtube videos - Noisefilm and Ilford - and two websites - Ilford and Digitaltruth.
Then I acquired the following:
- Developing tank - must have
- Thermometer - must have
- Chemicals - must have
- Changing Bag - must have
- Film wiper
- Graduated beaker - must have, but bought them secondhand, and the ones made for cooking. Works just fine.
Once I got all the things, I watched all the videos and read the websites again and again. Just to be sure.
The first thing I did was rewindning the film. What happend next was that the film broke. I was not aware of this so I opened the back cover. Easier downcast, I decided to continue the processio, hoping it was not ruined, when I opened the cover.
I chose to put it all in the changing bag - Developing tank, scissor, knife and the camera. I opened the cover, and started to see if I could get the rest of the film of the spole and into the developing tank. It succeeded - though a bit shattered. Now to the actual development.
I read the mixture proportion on the bottles and got this:
- 275ml water(20 degrees celsius) - 25ml developer
- 285ml water(20 degrees celsius) - 15ml Stopbath
- 225ml water(20 degrees celsius) - 75ml Fixer
- Distilled Water
And now the how-to!
- Pour the developer in the developing tank for 5 minutes and agitate every 30 seconds, for 10 seconds. After 5 minutes pour the developer in back in the graduated beaker.
- Pour the stopbath in the tank for 1 minute, and agitate every 30 seconds. After 1 minute pour the stopbath back into the graduated beaker.
- Pour the fixer in the developing tank for 5 minutes and agitate every 30 seconds, for 10 seconds. After 5 minutes pour the fixer in back in the graduated beaker.
- Wash the film for 3 minutes
- Hang the film to dry. Don't forget to wipe the film from water with the film wiper.
- Scan the film.
I think it turned out too grain. This is the first film I developed. So I'm not sure if it's because of the film, the develop-time, the chemicals or a whole other thing. But surely, I'll try to make it less grain next time.
Let me know what you think abot the pictures, and this guide. Do you want more of this content?
Don't forget to subscribe to the newsletter and share if you liked the post.
Finally, I've been waiting about a month for this! First, it was sent off then returned, and sent off to another, where the price doubled. So what am I talking about? Let me tell you. I visited Vefa photo back in December where they recommended a real black and white film, the Kodak 100 TMAX. I shot the film, and handed it in for development. But they could not develop it, because it's real black and white negative and can't be processed like the Ilford XP2 400. So it went back and forth, but finally I got it back. And here are some of the pictures.
So which of the two BW film do I like the best? I don't know. But what I do know is that i'm a big fan of analogue! Just to set the record straight, the camera used is a Konica Autoreflex A.
And let's not forget: I've made another short video. Hope you like.
This week is a little bit different. I've been experimenting with analoguefilm for a while now, and have had a professional develop some of the film i've taken, and that's all fine, but iI want to show you guys the pictures. So I bought a cheap film strip scanner used, so I could scan the negatives, and I ended up with this result. Far from my expectations!
So instead I went online to find a way to scan my negatives, without buying an expensive scanner, and I ended up creating this.
After some trail and error I got at satisfying result. Have a look yourself, and let me know in the comments what you think. It's definitely not the last time I scan analouges.